So, in this week’s blog post, we will be discussing who was the first person to conquer Mt. Everest and the ramifications of this act, calling thousands of people to attempt this dangerous and challenging feat.
The reason we are discussing it now is because it is now climbing season on the mountain. A short period of time when the weather and winds die down to manageable conditions allows climbers the ability to attempt to summit Everest.
The lowest temperature ever recorded on the summit of Mount Everest was -70.5°C (-94°F), measured by the Korean-German team during its successful record ascent to the summit in November 1975. The wind is generally blowing at a constant 9 mph, which is not bad, but there are times when weather fronts move in, and you can easily get sustained gusts of 70mph or higher.
I don’t know about you, but this doesn’t really sound like a fun time to us here at the Acorn Blog. Not to mention the splitting headaches from the lack of oxygen and your body’s systems starting to slow down and potentially stop at altitudes above 26,000 feet. Also known as the Death Zone. This trip is not for the faint of heart, and if you are not in great shape physically, this most likely is a suicide climb. In 2024, 500 climbers were reportedly attempting to summit Everest, many of whom didn’t have any climbing experience. At least 5 people have died so far in this year’s climbing season, with more sure to come.
So, how did we get here, and who was the first to climb Everest? Officially, the first confirmed summit of Everest belongs to Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who reached the peak on May 29, 1953. Even these accounts have been disputed, saying that Norgay was the first to stand at the summit, not Hillary. The belief is that there would be more significant publicity if the New Zealander, Hillary was the first because Norgay was a sherpa and a supporting expedition member. With most of the evidence found to date, it is believed that the first person was, in fact, Tenzing Norgay, who summited Everest, so take that history book.
BUT WAIT AND STOP THE PRESSES!!!!
(I feel a mystery coming on.)
The year is 1924. Mount Everest, a colossal titan of rock and ice, stands unconquered, its summit a mythic realm untouched by human foot. Against this daunting backdrop, a daring British expedition embarks on a perilous journey, determined to be the first to write their names in the annals of mountaineering history. Leading the charge is George Mallory, a seasoned climber whose unwavering determination is as legendary as the peak itself. Accompanying him is Andrew “Sandy” Irvine, a young and talented climber with a knack for engineering. He was entrusted with a modified oxygen apparatus, a potential game changer in the thin air of the “Death Zone.”
On June 8, Mallory and Irvine set off for their final push towards the summit. Their teammate Howard Somervell last saw them, mere specks against the vast canvas of Everest. Then, silence. Weeks of agonizing wait turned into a chilling reality; Mallory and Irvine were never seen alive again. The question that continues to resonate through the decades is a simple yet profound one: Did they conquer Everest, becoming the first to stand atop the world, only to perish on the treacherous descent?
The evidence, though circumstantial, is enough to ignite the flames of speculation. Mallory, known for his audacious spirit and unwavering belief in their ability to summit, had finally embraced supplemental oxygen, a tactic he previously considered “unsporting.” Irvine’s ingenuity with the oxygen equipment offered a glimmer of hope for success in the unforgiving environment. Witness accounts placed them high on the mountain on that fateful day, and a photograph by Somervell captured them seemingly undeterred, with a crucial detail, Mallory is holding Somervell’s camera. Was he perhaps documenting their triumph, a photograph forever lost in the unforgiving embrace of Everest?
The theory of a successful summit hinges on several factors. First, there was a crucial weather window. Conditions on Everest are notoriously fickle, and a brief period of clear skies could have presented a narrow opportunity. Second, there was a shift in Mallory’s perspective on oxygen. Initially resistant, he eventually saw it as necessary, potentially allowing for a late-day summit push. The descent, inherently more perilous than the ascent, could explain their tragic demise.
However, the mountaineering community is skeptical. Critics point to the limitations of their equipment. The bulky oxygen apparatus and rudimentary clothing of the era, they argue, would have severely hampered their progress. The near-vertical rock face known as the Second Step presents a formidable obstacle, seemingly insurmountable, without the aid of more advanced climbing gear.
The discovery of Mallory’s body in 1999 added another layer to the mystery. While a definitive summit photo remained elusive, a surprising find—a length of rope snagged high on the mountain—sparked renewed interest. Some believe this rope could be evidence of a route Irvine used to bypass the Second Step, a possibility that reignited the summit theory.
The quest to solve the Mallory and Irvine mystery continues. Technological advancements offer new avenues for investigation. DNA analysis of unidentified remains found high on Everest can potentially identify Irvine, providing a more definitive answer to their fate. Perhaps, nestled amongst the glacial ice, a well-preserved camera awaits discovery, holding within its lens the long-lost photograph of Mallory and Irvine, triumphant on the summit of Everest.
The enduring allure of the Mallory and Irvine mystery lies not just in the possibility of a first ascent but in the very human spirit it represents. They are testaments to human ambition and the unwavering will to conquer the seemingly impossible. Their story is a poignant reminder of the risks inherent in pushing the boundaries of human exploration, a constant dance between daring and devastation played against the backdrop of the world’s most formidable peak.
The mountain, however, remains silent. Whether Mallory and Irvine conquered Everest may forever remain shrouded in the icy mists of history. Their legacy, etched in the fabric of Everest lore, is a constant reminder of the enduring human quest to explore the unknown, even in the face of immense danger. Their story continues to inspire and challenge us, a testament to the enduring power of the human spirit in the pursuit of the extraordinary.
In life, like in a classic novel, there are clues of who was, in fact, the first to summit Everest, and it is our job to search for the missing evidence. The evidence for this mystery is the missing camera Mallory took with him on his climb, which teammate Somervell had given him so he could document this great accomplishment. Wouldn’t it be amazing if the camera was found and the sure proof was given that Mallory and Irvine were the actual first conquerors of Everest, 100 years after the fact?
To many mountaineers, summiting is only half the story, and to get credit, you must also make it back alive to be counted as the first. This makes sense because most fatalities occur on the descent. Many climbers make a huge mistake, thinking that summiting is the whole goal and not realizing how much energy and focus are needed to make it back safely. So, no matter what proof is found, most people will credit Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary for making it back alive.
What do you think, and who should be credited for being the first to summit Everest?
Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary
or
Andrew Irvine and George Mallory
Until the next adventure, Acorn Blog has left the building!